I presented Faith with a shopping list this am: Summit aluminum radiator..still have cooling issues Milodon 160 t-stat Crane timing control...pulls timing out according to boost 2 bar Map sensor for timing control Taylor NHRA legal battery box...make turd track ready I already have battery shut-off switch Reichart Racing ultra grip 3.00 blower pullley, should put me at 15-16psi with no belt slip She said I should be a happy boy on Christmas morning.....
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Death is my art and I'm about to paint my masterpiece.
Don't do the stat. The computer will never go into loop unless it hits operating temps. I have a 185 in mine. Plus, if you have a 160, it will be like running no stat, will just keep circulating, never having time to cool in the rad. You sure your timing and AF is OK? Might be lean causing it to run hot. You get that dyno yet? I have a FRPP 2 Core high efficient rad in mine and it runs ~180*.
No dyno yet, timing is at 12 degrees. Judging by my bumper cover,it's running a little rich. I have a brass 3 core radiator now & yesterday got up to 215 in stop/go driving with 2100cfm fan running constantly.I'm running a high flow 180 stat now & will run cool for a while but on hot days in traffic temp just will continue to climb & will not recover.
-- Edited by 93_REEF_NOTCH at 10:22, 2007-09-09
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Death is my art and I'm about to paint my masterpiece.
Nice list Rob !! I have a hypertech 160 T-stat in mine and it runs great . Temps are 170 to 180 on hot days . When driving on the highway it stays 170 to 174 in 90 * weather . In traffic it will get to 180 -185 again on a hot day like 90 *and thats with the stock 62,000 mile 2 core radiator running 600 horse with A/C . I think your problem is your electric fan . 2100 cfm is not enough for your combo . I suggest getting a 2800 to 3000 cfm electric fan and go with the 160 T- stat. The car actually goes into closed loop around 130 * and the only thing a 160 will do is cause it to run a little rich , which is not a bad thing with a blown car . Besides it will never run below 170 on a hot day and it will only get to 160 in the cold fall and spring months when its 50 * or colder . Also when we were setting up your meth we started at 12* and backed it off to 8* I thought . We never went back to check it but we did back off the timing from the initial 12 and try taking 2 pounds of fuel out as 42 psi is a little rich with meth . Remember meth is a fuel so you will make up for the lack of fuel pressure . But what you really need is a DYNO TUNE . Hay and while your hitting her up for Christmas why not ask for heads to ,hahaha . If she loves you she'll give you some head !!
The fan I have on there now came off an 11.5-1 509" BBC that kept it cool forever....My fan blows air like a mofo & covers almost the entire radiator plus I'm using factory shroud. I know I need a tune... BTW, heads are outta the question at this time...
-- Edited by 93_REEF_NOTCH at 13:17, 2007-09-09
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Death is my art and I'm about to paint my masterpiece.
Thats cool Rob ...... Well not in your engines case. If your engine stays cool moving and not in stop and go traffic then its not getting enough air through the radiator at slow speeds to cool it . Either that or your water pump is not moving enough GPM's . Why I'm saying this is because mine had the same issues with the stock engine and blower combo. What the problem was is the fan resistor was smoked and would only work at one speed . Not enough cfm was being pulled through the radiator at slow speeds or siting in traffic in hot weather. After I put the new resistor in the fan would spin faster and draw enough air to keep it cool like it should . Why it worked on your bud's car has nothing to do with yours . Did he have aluminum heads ? How about a big fat aluminum radiator ? Was his car blown like yours ? Blower cars have elevated intake air temps that can cause excess heat in the engine .
2 different radiators & 2 different fans in my car since I've had it. Same result. 1st radiator was stock 2 core, with Taurus 2 speed fan wired for high speed, 2nd combo is 3 core brass radiator with 15" diameter fan & factory shroud. Volt guage barely drops at idle so I know fan doesn't slow down that much at idle. Waterpump is factory new pump with 93 Cobra pulley (overdriven).
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Death is my art and I'm about to paint my masterpiece.
ELECTRIC RADIATOR FAN 86/93 MUSTANG 5.0L FLEXALITE Flex-A-Lite 185 Black Magic Extreme 15" Electric Fan for 1986-1995 5.0L Mustang
The most powerful single electric fan on the market with model specific brackets for your 5.0L. This is not a cheap generic mount fan. Adds up to 17 horsepower & 20 lb-ft torque by eliminating your mechanical fan and provides consistent cooling regardless of engine RPM.
Other features include: -Rugged one-piece nylon shroud. -8 S-shaped blades pull through 3,300 cfm -Installation instructions
This will solve your cooling problems garuanteed . It's 295. $ and flows 1200 more cfm than yours. You Definatley have alot of the cooling basics covered except that 2100 cfm does not pull enough air through your radiator to cool it on a hot day . Just my
I made a mistake on my current fan Scott Derale #16217, 17" diameter Electric Fan, Single, 17 in. Diameter, Puller, 2,400 cfm, Black, Plastic, Each little better than 2100 but still.... I just don't know if I should change radiators again or spring for the $313.00 3300 cfm fan...I think I'm gonna puke just thinking about it. BTW, temp will barely come down at highway speeds.
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Death is my art and I'm about to paint my masterpiece.
Do the cheap fix first and try the 160 * T- stat and flush and fill . Redline water wetter is supposed to wark pretty good . I've seen the radiator you have it should cool that car down plenty . But if it runs hot on the highway too then something is up !! Do you think the stat is fuckin with ya ?? Did you try taking the factory shroud off to see if it helps ?? Maybe it is not letting enough air pass some how . ...
Too funny Scott, I was looking at the car last night & wondering about removing factory shroud.... I'm gonna pick up 160 stat, I already have fresh coolant and that -40 stuff in it. I'll pick up a 160 stat today & give it a whirl. Thank you for all the suggestions...I wanna torch the fucking car. Edit: nobody stocks 160 t-stat for 5.0L, ordered one from Vato-zone, should see it Thursday. 160 Mr Gasket "Race" t-stat...
-- Edited by 93_REEF_NOTCH at 09:23, 2007-09-11
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Death is my art and I'm about to paint my masterpiece.
In my car Im runnin a black magic fan, 180 degree stat. As long as Im movin my car stays about 180-185. Alot of lights I stay just under 200. One time in heavy traffic on a hot day I got up to 215. I think my problem is the underdrive pully + the water pump. My car idles real lopey and I dont think its turning it enough. This winter Im going to throw on a electric pump, I think that will fix me right up. Ill let you know how it works out.
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1993 LX
347ci Coast High Performance stroker assy.
5.0 roller block .30 over & decked .20 & squared 50 oz balance, 10.7-1 compression w/58cc heads
and while your hitting her up for Christmas why not ask for heads to ,hahaha . If she loves you she'll give you some head !! 
